When you worked for a district full-time or a big employer, retirement was often automatic:
Pension: money was deducted and the state system tracked it.
401(k): employer offered a plan, possibly with a match, and payroll contributions were easy.
As a substitute, retirement is often your responsibility—but the good news is:
✅ You can still build a strong retirement plan
✅ You can choose something simpler than pensions and 401(k)s
✅ You can keep retirement consistent even if you change jobs frequently
The easiest and most common retirement tool for substitutes is an IRA.
An IRA (Individual Retirement Account) is a retirement account you open yourself—no employer required.
Substitutes often:
Work for multiple districts or staffing agencies
Have changing schedules
Don’t get employer retirement plans or pension contributions
Want flexible contributions
An IRA gives you:
Control (you pick the provider and investments)
Portability (it stays with you forever)
Flexibility (you contribute when you can)
Tax advantages (the government gives you incentives to save)
A pension is a promise: work long enough, and you may get monthly payments later.
Typically requires years of service to “vest”
Retirement amount is based on a formula
You don’t control the investments
An IRA is money you own, invested in your name.
No vesting
No minimum years required
You control it
Your retirement depends on what you contribute + investment growth
Translation:
A pension is like a guaranteed income formula (if you stay long enough).
An IRA is like a retirement savings engine you control.
A 401(k) is an employer retirement plan:
Contributions come from payroll
You pick from employer-approved investment options
Some employers offer a match
IRAs:
Have more investment options
Are simpler
Don’t require an employer
Don’t include employer matching (usually)
Translation:
A 401(k) is employer-based.
An IRA is self-managed and portable.
There are two main types of IRAs:
Contributions may reduce your taxable income today
Money grows tax-deferred
You pay taxes when you withdraw in retirement
Best if you think:
You’re in a higher tax bracket now than you’ll be in retirement
You want the biggest tax break today
Contributions are made with money you already paid taxes on
Money grows tax-free
Withdrawals in retirement are generally tax-free
Best if you think:
You’re in a lower tax bracket now (common for substitutes)
You want tax-free retirement income later
If you’re earning modest income now and expect to earn more later → Roth IRA is often best.
If you earn high income now and want deductions → Traditional IRA may be better.
Bottom line: Most substitutes should strongly consider a Roth IRA, but it depends on income and taxes.
IRA contribution limits change over time, but as a general rule:
You can contribute up to an annual maximum set by the IRS
You can contribute anytime during the year (and often until tax day of the next year)
You also must have earned income (money from working) to contribute.
Good strategy: If you can’t contribute much, start with something small and consistent—like $25/week or $50/month. It adds up fast.
This is called the “custodian” (the company holding the account). Choose a reputable provider with:
Low fees
Easy-to-use app/website
Good investment options
Common choices people use include large brokerages and robo-advisors.
If unsure and your income is moderate, Roth is usually the simplest and most future-proof.
You’ll typically need:
Social Security Number
Driver’s license or ID
Bank account info (to link for deposits)
You can do this by:
Linking a bank account and transferring money
Setting up automatic deposits (highly recommended)
This is where many people get stuck.
Key point:
If you deposit money into an IRA but don’t invest it, it may just sit as cash and barely grow.
A Target-Date Retirement Fund (or similar “all-in-one” fund)
You pick the year you plan to retire (example: 2055)
It automatically adjusts over time
Very hands-off
Set-it-and-forget-it option:
Automatic monthly contribution + target-date fund = simple retirement plan.
You generally have three options:
Leave it where it is
Roll it into your new employer plan (if you have one)
Roll it into an IRA (often the best for flexibility)
Consolidate accounts
More investment options
Often lower fees
Easier to manage
This is called a rollover IRA.
Important: A rollover should be done as a direct rollover, so you avoid taxes and penalties.
You may have:
refundable contributions (sometimes)
a “vesting” status (you may qualify for future benefits)
options if you leave (varies by state/system)
Do not assume you should cash out a pension.
Sometimes it makes sense, but sometimes it’s a bad deal long-term.
Your best next step: contact your pension program and ask:
Am I vested?
What benefit would I receive at retirement?
Can I leave the money in?
What happens if I return later?
Then decide if you:
keep it
roll eligible funds (if allowed)
take a refund (rarely best unless small and you need it)
Retirement savings is about time, not huge deposits. Starting small now beats starting big later.
Cash sitting in an IRA doesn’t build a retirement.
Withdrawals before retirement age can trigger:
taxes
penalties
and you lose future growth
One Roth IRA (and possibly a rollover IRA) is usually enough.
If you want this to be easy:
Open a Roth IRA
Set an automatic deposit
Example: $25/week or $100/month
Invest in a target-date fund
Increase your contribution as your income rises
That’s it.
This guide is for education only—not tax or investment advice. Everyone’s situation is different, especially if you have:
a pension you might be vested in
old 401(k) accounts
variable income
tax considerations
If you want help choosing Traditional vs Roth, ask a tax preparer or financial professional.